So off we set on Monday full of anticipation and daring do to catch the lift and toddle along to the hut so as to start our mountain preparations the following morn.
Lesson 1 This in France. In France they close lifts unexpectedly.
We found the lift closed. It had closed on the Sunday. This presented us with the delight of an unexpected ‘hut grind’ of 1250 meters – What fun.
With packs, said grind was done in 3hrs 30. to find us sunning ourselves and taking tea. The chaps were not put off.
I wanted to start at 4 the following day but the guardian insisted that rising at 5.30 would do and he assigned us to a dormitory. We cooked a scrumtious meal and eat it before the setting sun. Then off to bye byes.
Up and off in the morning, scrambled through the boulder screes and found the glacier in the dark. Donned crampons and rope then off we went. Made good time, crossed several crevasses and found the Col supirieur de Tour. This was somewhat changed – the upper section being longer and steeper. this section was also more polished. We were still able to move together so little time was lost.
Over to Switzerland and the Trient Plateau. We then soon arrived at the foot of the Aguille de Tour Rocks. It was hot. We were later than the mountain demanded. We should have left at 4.
Lesson 2 Listen to advice but decide for yourself.
I crossed the rimaye (nasty big deep crevasse where the glacier meets the rock) and scaled the steep ice with the others following. The angle relented a bit but the surface was polished water ice being further shon up by water and gravel streaming down it. I stuck in a screw and thought. We would need to climb in relays with protection this would slow us down and the descent would be worse. To crystallise my thinking gravity chimed in. A whacking big rock (about 2ft across) hurtled down whizzing twixt me and Steve. Being a nimble lad Steve jumped clear. (I’m going to send him to Spain bull fighting. Honestly the pass was brilliant. He timed it to such effect that the rock clipped his pack) Clinging there secured to my screw I began to understand how a duck in a shooting gallery feels. So collectively and incredibly quickly DOWN became our common thought.
Back on the glacier we all agreed – we should have been 2hrs earlier. (and Steve moves fast for a big lad)
Jollied by the brilliant sunshine we strolled happily to the Cabane de Trient on the far side of the Trient Plateau. Stunning scenery bottomless crevasses.
Up early the following day. Recrossed the Trient in full dark and falling snow. Stunning scenery – bottomless crevasses. Coll de Tour impassable. Col superieur de Tour considerably degraded. Our descent definitely needed a few screws, slings and the rope. We were rather chuffed at the bottom when we saw that the only party attempting to climb up it turned back.
So just the long slog home broken by a pleasant omelet at the refuge de Albert Premier.
We feel stronger and wiser. Jenni Fleming will be joining back in with us as we continue and Ozone have generously sponsored her to a wing as being only 60 kilo compared to chaps nearly twice her size she needs the lightest and best kit possible.
Big thinks in the valley as the mountain is throwing winter storms our way………
I’ll let you know what daft ideas we come up with.